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Xiaoliuqiu: A short 1 day getaway to this tiny island in Taiwan

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Located at the southwest coast of Taiwan, Xiaoliuqiu - or sometimes known as Little Liuqiu, is an easy getaway destination among Taiwan’s offshore islands. It is the only and the largest coral island with human activities. With its clean beach, warm temperature, and accessible diving areas, Xiaoliuqiu is suitable year-round for nature lovers.

The coastline of Xiaoliuqiu island. Source: Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications, ROC

Morning - Getting to Xiaoliuqiu from Kaohsiung

The most common way for travelers to get to Xiaoliuqiu is to take a train or High-Speed Rail (HSR) from Taipei or any other major cities to Kaohsiung first, then take a ferry from Donggang Wharf to Xiaoliuqiu Wharf. There are several ferry operators, and there’s no distinct difference between them. Simply choose the one that fits your schedule, or the one with the least queue if you’re visiting during tourist season. Beware of the last ferry on the day to get back to Kaohsiung. The schedule varies seasonally. It could run as late as 8pm during summer, but as early as 5pm in winter. To get the most out of a 1-day trip, try to arrive in Xiaoliuqiu by noon so you have sufficient time to check out the amazing coasts and enjoy some water activities!

 

Getting around on Xiaoliuqiu

Once arrived, you’ll realize Xiaoliuqiu is quite a traditional fisherman’s town. There are buses, but they don’t run frequently. The best way to get around Xiaoliuqiu island is by a scooter. Upon arrival at Xiaoliuqiu Wharf, you’ll see scooter rental shops. It is best to ask around for prices and models, as it’s usually negotiable. Some also offer electric bikes, which also work perfectly for a day in Xiaoliuqiu. Don’t forget to bring your license with you, some shops may reject rentals without a valid ID!

 

Noon - Taste of Xiaoliuqiu

As an island in the Pacific, Xiaoliuqiu boosts fresh seafood such as oyster, squid and crab. If you’re more of a daredevil, try some urchin sashimi! It goes perfectly well with a dip of soy sauce and wasabi.

Traditional restaurants, referred to as “quick fry” by Taiwanese, are easy to spot in Xiaoliuqiu. Most of them serve similar dishes with reasonable prices. You can pop into any of them and energize yourself for the rest of the day.

Regular vegetable dishes are around 200 NTD and seafood dishes between 200 NTD and 400 NTD depending on the portion, unless its a delicacy. For example, local crabs or a plate of sashimi.

Fresh Oysters. Source: Pixabay

Edible Sea Urchin. Source: Pixabay

Freshly boiled squid with garlic sauce. Photo credit: Danielle Lin

Traditional Quick Fry Dishes. Photo credit: Danielle Lin

 

Afternoon - Nature & Culture

There are two main spots and one major activity to touch base with Xiaoliuqiu: Vase Rock in the north for nature, Black Dwarf Cave in the south for the culture, and diving to see the corals and green sea turtles!

Vase Rock

Get your cameras ready! The 9-meter high Vase Rock makes it the most visited tourist spot in Xiaoliuqiu and top instagrammable place for nature lovers. Its form comes from the rising coral reef and the eroded bottom by the waves. Located nearby the main port Baisha Port in the north, it’s seen as the guardian of Xiaoliuqiu.

Vase Rock. Source: Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communications, ROC

Diving

Green Sea Turtle. Source: Commons

 

Right around Vase Rock, you can see divers all around on a sunny day. If you want to be guided, you can sign up with local diving coaches, especially for deep dives. Most shops wouldn’t even lend you gadget without a coach with you unless you have a valid diving license. Alternatively, scuba diving is quite easy and safe in Xiaoliuqiu, you can rent gadgets from shops around the coast and check out the amazing sea creatures, specifically the green sea turtles.

If you’re unsure which part to dive on your own, consult the local shops as they’re usually happy to give you some tips to avoid bumping into an area full of urchins! 

Do note that the locals are very protective when it comes to their environment, particularly to protect the previous green sea turtles. Make-up, sunscreen, food, drinks, trash, or anything that could damage the habitats are not welcome in the sea.

 

Black Dwarf Cave

After an hour or two diving, get yourself dry and re-energize with some snack. Now, get back on your scooter to ride south for a coastal view along Xiaoliuqiu. You’ll likely to pass by Beauty Cave, several pavilions that locals enjoy hanging out at while viewing the sea, and you’ll reach the famous Black Dwarf Cave in the south of Xiaoliuqiu.

View from the pavilion on a small hill on the way to southern Xiaoliuqiu - clear water with divers around. Source: Danielle Lin

Legend has it that Black Dwarf Cave was a cave for African Slaves to hide from the Dutch during the Dutch occupation of Xiaoliuqiu. However, it’s been debunked by historians. The actual people who hid in the cave and the reason behind it remain a debate. Nowadays, most historians believe that it is the indigenous people who hid in the cave when the Dutch occupied Xiaoliuqiu and slaughtered hundreds of people in the 17th century. It is said that the group of people hidden in the cave was eventually “smoked” out of the cave by the Dutch and killed.

Although the cave collapsed, you can still see hints of human habitation in the cave. Some parts of it had been destroyed over time from wind and collapse, making it difficult to navigate in the cave some time. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes, it is definitely worth the hike!

The entrance of Black Dwarf Cave. Source: Commons

Inside Black Dwarf Cave. Source: Liuqiu

 

Evening - Heading back to Kaohsiung

The ferry is the only way to get between Xiaoliuqiu and mainland Taiwan, so be sure to check the schedule for the return. If you happen to have some time to spare, there are plenty of eateries and souvenir shops around the wharf.

Some extra tips to consider:

  • Located in the area, Xiaoliuqiu is warm all year round. Wearing summer clothes and comfortable shoes will suffice!
  • Beware of potential typhoons between May and September - ferries may be shut down, and so do most activities
  • Streets are quite narrow in Xiaoliuqiu, careful and always slow down when riding a scooter
  • Sea creatures in high tide zones could be poisonous, don’t attempt to pick them up or even bring them home, which is illegal in Xiaoliuqiu!


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